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This ALREADY needs a re-org. Maybe by priority- 1,2,3,4, with Safety & sailing at the top.

Get MMSI/call-sign:

Get my license re-issued.

Get VHF certificate?

Other courses:


  • Lazy-jacks/lazy pack
  • Install the running backstays
  • Halyard clutches on mast
  • Mast steps?
  • Add 3rd & 4th reefs to main
  • Convert other head sails
  • Roller furling for staysail, storm sail for staysail (Code 0/Facnor continuos/top-down furling? Removable self-furling?)
  • Gennaker? Gennaker with top-down furler?
  • Top-down furler with an old drifter we may have with hanks removed?
  • Running backstays for staysail, blocks/controls etc.
  • Wind/Self-steering gear
  • Jordan/Series drogue (Sailrite makes DIY kits)
  • Blocks for deck to run halyards either to cockpit or to secondary (deck/doghouse mounted) halyard winches

Ground tackle

  • check the windlass
  • check the chain
  • Rocna?




  • Extend manual bilge pump line
  • Cut access panel for stuffing box
  • Add salt-water faucet to galley
  • Repair auto-pilot
  • (very longterm) Install steel pan in shower for sump, use teak grate for shower floor

Other re-fit thoughts

  • Lower cushion back height and install book shelves behind settee below pilot berths There is a massive amount of space available here, can do book shelves as well as stowage with no problem
  • Cut settee cushion backs down in height and segment them length-wise, install locker doors behind each segment
  • Install snaps on settee cushions to old them in place
  • Hardwood dresser drawer reclamation project, install drawers in V-berth bulkhead
  • Replace two missing small drawers
  • Rebuild entire vessel from the inside out
  • Add salt water faucet from the “spule” pump or salt water manifold
  • Remove stand-alone fridge, migrate galley forward & install proper cold storage within/under counter top space
  • Work-space w/vise- roll-top where fridge is located now? Or move shower out of stern to full-height stall behind nav desk & reclaim portion of head as work space
  • Need much more shelving
  • Grab rails
  • Lee cloth attachments in berths
  • If possible move aft bulkhead back ~6 inches, would likely need to extend engine box? or just add panel to back of engine box & install bit of flooring
  • Convert one pilot berth to proper storage cabinets with locker doors or sliding fronts
  • Try to find PVC trim/boards for re-doing coach roof etc…


  • Life-raft is very old and needs inspection - maybe a hard life raft is a good choice? E.g. Portland Pudgy
  • Epirb
  • Sat phone
  • Grab bag with:
    • Handheld VHF kept charged
    • Handheld GPS with batteries
    • Flares (“electric” flares?)
    • Water

Other EL issues

  • Book: “Advanced Marine Electics and Electronics Troubleshooting” by Ed Sherman

Explanation of basic leak testing (not sure why I didn't think of this):


If you want to test to see if you have a DC-based ground leak, the test for that is rather simple. The steps for seeing if you have a DC-ground leak are as follows:

First—the preliminary diagnosis test:

1) Turn off all equipment and disconnect any solar panels 2) Disconnect the positive side of the battery banks. 3) Leave the main battery isolation switch turned on for the bank in question 4) Set the meter to VDC mode, range appropriate for your battery bank 5) Connect the meter between the positive terminal and the disconnected cable

The meter should give no reading. If it reads XX volts for your XX VDC system, one of two things is happening.

1) You've left some equipment connected and turned on. This could be a bilge pump, a power feed to a stereo for the radio's memory and clock functions, or a hard-wired fume detector.

2) If you've disconnected all the “hard-wired” equipment and still get a reading, then you've most likely got a ground leak in your boat's DC system.

The Ground Leak Check:

1) Set the meter in Ohm mode and set it to the lowest range (x1). 2) Connect the leads of the Ohm-meter (or multimeter in Ohm mode) to the disconnected positive lead and the negative terminal of the battery.

The meter is now reading the resistance of any circuit to ground that exists in the boat's wiring. The reading on the Ohm meter display can help you identify the cause of the leak.

0-10 Ohms means it is most likely a piece of equipment left on 10-1k Ohms is a low-drain piece of equipment left on, or a serious ground leak 1k-10k Ohms is a minor leak 10k+ Ohms is an insignificant leak

How Big is The Leak?

The ammeter function of the multi-meter can tell you what the current leakage is. If your meter can read up to 10 Amps DC, then you can use it to measure amperage for leaks down to about 1.3 Ohms resistance on a 12 VDC system, or 2.6 Ohms for a 24 VDC system.

To see how big the leak is, put the probes on the positive battery post and the disconnected cable. The meter readings can be interpreted as shown:

<1mA — insignificant leakage 1–10mA — minor leakage 10mA–1A — major leak or some equipment left on

1A — Usually some equipment left on.

I'm not sure how to test for a ground fault in the AC side of your boat. I hope this helps.

Also interesting on AC leakage:


Ben, Steve D'Antonio tested for AC leaks on our boat by putting an AC clamp meter on the shore power cord. A clamp meter normally is supposed to go around only the positive or hot wire; otherwise it sums the positive and negative current and reads zero. However, in this case you want to clamp both conductors (which is in any case the only way to do it unless you filet your shore power cord); if you are leaking current via any path other than the shore power cord (which you shouldn't be), the sum of the currents through both conductors won't be zero and you'll see a current register on your clamp meter display.

In our case we were fine with a few microamps of leakage, but another boat in the marina had 300 mA when measured this way.


peregrine/equipment-to-do.txt · Last modified: 2016/04/26 07:00 by ben