User Tools

Site Tools


rini:iw31

Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revision Previous revision
Next revision
Previous revision
rini:iw31 [2011/07/08 18:02]
ben
— (current)
Line 1: Line 1:
-Links: 
- 
-http://​www.skipperguide.de/​wiki/​Hallands_Väderö 
- 
-http://​www.dba.dk/​31-fods-havkrydser/​id-72263946/​ 
- 
-http://​smhavn.dk/​con24.php4 
- 
-http://​iw31.blogspot.com 
- 
-http://​www.stormy-iw31.eu/​7572/​ 
- 
-http://​www.stormy-iw31.eu/​5881/​ 
- 
-http://​translate.google.com/​translate?​js=n&​prev=_t&​hl=en&​ie=UTF-8&​layout=2&​eotf=1&​sl=sv&​tl=en&​u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stormy-iw31.eu%2F5881%2F 
- 
-http://​www.iw31.de/​bilder/​index.html 
- 
-http://​sy-juliette.de/​ 
- 
-http://​sparkmanstephens.blogspot.com/​2011/​02/​design-1899-iw-31-class.html 
- 
-http://​mermaidscheveningen.webklik.nl/​page/​ontwerp 
- 
-http://​www.iw31-wismar.de/​ 
- 
-http://​www.iw31.dk/​ 
- 
-http://​eskapad.wordpress.com/​ 
- 
-http://​mermaidscheveningen.webklik.nl/​page/​ontwerp 
- 
-http://​www.klassiekepolyesterjachten.nl/​page/​OverOns 
- 
-http://​sailboatdata.com/​viewrecord.asp?​class_id=5505 
- 
-http://​www.s-and-s-association.org/​ 
- 
-http://​www.sparkmanstephens.info/​doc/​5702458zUBmMLGktd9U2RAC4CT7yqTe9.pdf 
- 
-http://​www.marinepartseurope.com/​en/​volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-30-11707.aspx 
- 
-volvo instrument panel parts: 
-<​code>​Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic INSTRUMENT PANEL 12V 
-2001, 2001B 
- 
-#​ Description PartNo. Qty Price (DKK) 
-1 Instrument Panel 859057 1 Out of production  
- ​ WHITE COLOURED DECOR STRIPE. 
- ​ Replaced by: 
- ​ Plastplugg 858648 1 101,00  
- ​ Instrumentpanel 873594 1 4 881,25  
-2 Instrument Panel 872798 1 435,00  
-3 Closure 858648 1 101,00  
-4 Button 843684 1 647,50  
-5 Rubber cap 837533 1 77,63  
-6 Protecting casing 858795 1 31,88  
-7 Buzzer 828587 1 742,50  
-8 Toggle switch 828584 1 320,00  
- ​ Alarm 
-8 Toggle switch 828585 1 115,00  
- ​ LIGHTING 
-9 Nut 828586 2 155,00  
-10 Symbol strip 858645 1 213,75  
-11 Electronic unit 873737 1 2 310,00  
-12 Bulb 19923 3 11,75  
-13 Reflector 828784 1 181,25  
-14 Cross recessed screw 941615 2 17,88  
-15 Spring washer 941904 2 0,33  
-16 Cross recessed screw 949947 1 1,03  
-17 Spring washer 941904 1 0,33  
-18 Screw 828647 4 11,25  
-19 Cable block 859037 1 1 440,00  
-19 CABLES AND TERMINALS  
-</​code>​ 
- 
-Thinking about anemometers with no moving parts- it may be possible to use a cheap pressure sensor as a pitot tube, with a 360 degree cowling that funnels horizontal moving air upwards into the sensor (picture two smooth funnels inserted into each other). ​ An apparently cheap & suitable sensor for Arduino is: http://​www.coolcomponents.co.uk/​catalog/​product_info.php?​cPath=36_68&​products_id=739 ​ Coupled with a GPS chip to get SOG & COG, apparent and real wind speed could be directly output in NMEA0183 format. ​ Add wind direction and done. 
- 
-Pricey, but likely very useful: http://​www.liquidware.com/​shop/​show/​TSL/​TouchShield+Slide 
- 
-There'​s also: http://​www.watterott.net/​projects/​s65-shield - but no touch. ​ Available at http://​www.watterott.com 
- 
-And the 4D http://​www.youtube.com/​watch?​v=Z-Cf681Qurw&​feature=related available here (they also have an air pressure sensor): http://​www.coolcomponents.co.uk/​catalog/​product_info.php?​cPath=45_72&​products_id=676 
- 
-http://​www.youtube.com/​watch?​v=qWVA3klDIkg&​feature=related 
-http://​robotsat.blogspot.com/​2010/​06/​okay-how-about-video.html 
- 
-With a GPS sensor, can get time & speed, with the speed and wind direction & wind speed, should be able to output real wind & apparent wind speeds and direction from the single anemometer sensor already mounted. 
- 
-This guy has a lot of info: https://​sites.google.com/​site/​vilorei/​index/​arduino—serialgpsunit 
- 
-Another possibility is hacking an Archos 5 or 7, since they run linux it should be possible to code normal apps for display- the issue is input, there'​s only one serial port, so some kind of NMEA multiplexer & converter to ethernet or USB might be better. ​ They come with GPS and accelerometers and all kinds of capabilities built-in. 
- 
-There'​s also Android based hardware, http://​antipastohw.blogspot.com/​ 
- 
-http://​www.haidartechnology.com/​uploads/​SEG-CQ57-xxxREV1.10_Hardware_Manual.pdf 
- 
-http://​matrixmariner.com/​arduino_compass 
- 
-http://​www.polarnavy.com/​main/​prod2 
- 
-http://​dk.mouser.com:​80/​Circuit-Protection/​Circuit-Breakers/​_/​N-u7f4?​P=1yzu25aZ1z0s76mZ1z0s759Z1yzub35Z1z0z812Z1yzulet&​Keyword=10+amp+circuit+breaker&​FS=True 
- 
-Maybe a pitot tube can work accurately from 360 degrees? ​ See below: 
- 
-{{:​rini:​pitot_anemometer_housing.png?​direct&​200|}} 
- 
-not suitable, but a good site: http://​shop.moderndevice.com/​products/​wind-sensor 
- 
-http://​www.maretron.com/​products/​wso100.php 
- 
-Android based stuff: http://​www.linuxfordevices.com/​c/​a/​News/​Androidbased-gadgets-to-ship-in-October/​ 
- 
-Linux based media player: http://​www.linuxfordevices.com/​c/​a/​News/​ZiiLabs-Zii-Egg-and-ZMS05/​ 
- 
-http://​www.linuxfordevices.com/​c/​a/​Linux-For-Devices-Articles/​Linux-PDAs-PMPs-PNDs-and-other-Handhelds/​ 
- 
-http://​pcinst.imolesworth.info/​tiki-index.php?​page=NMEA 
- 
- 
-to-do: 
-  * change oil & filter! 
-  * move last jib reefing block up on stanchion to reduce wear 
-  * replace spreader end covers 
-  * widen holes through "​german solution"​ and spray rail to reduce friction on main & spinnaker halyards 
-  * replace topping lift line 
-  * re-sew spray hood windows 
-  * adjust mast sheaves to roll better (main & topping lift sheaves rub together) 
-  * scrape & paint keel bolts 
-  * re-inforce/​re-attach chain plate boards to hull below deck 
-  * drill hole in mast foot to allow drainage into bilge 
-  * install new backstay adjuster 
-  * lengthen/​add loop to secondary bilge pump line 
-  * replace faucet & sink in head 
-  * re-seal windows 
-  * sew new curtains and install new curtain rods 
-  * install secondary winch in place of compass 
-  * install panel compasses (danforth a140 dual-read seems like a nice idea) 
-  * replace instruments?​ 
-  * panel mount Garmin, perhaps with hidden padlock? 
-  * install depth sounder (create 4" diameter flat spot in front of keel using epoxy) 
-  * install block on out-haul 
-  * replace reefing blocks 
-  * drill-out/​replace spinnaker adjustment point (knob broken, screw seized) 
-  * sand & varnish tiller 
-  * replace cockpit drain hoses and clamps 
-  * repair engine instrument panel warning lights, switches, and alarm 
-  * add anchor light if possible (pull an old cable down with two cables in its place?) 
-  * replace masthead lamp with LED 
-  * replace motor lamp with LED 
-  * hell, replace all lamps with LED 
-  * replace switch panel & fuse box with joint switch and breaker switch panel (see mouser link above for 30v 10amp panel-mount breakers) 
-  * replace main battery switch w/ 2-battery system 
-  * add house battery 
-  * convert old winches to internal ratcheting? would need to replace bottom center gear with 3 or 4 small ratchets instead... need to sketchup something first. 
-  * add cockpit reefing lines 
-  * add cockpit out-haul adjustment 
-  * remove side lantern mounts on pulpit 
-  * remove stern lantern & mount from stern rail 
-  * remove stern lantern cabling 
-  * remove wall paper, glue, oil teak, re-vaneer where necessary 
-  * shorten starboard quarter berth and install nav desk 
-  * make two cushions for cockpit table  
-  * replace seal on instrument panel 
-  * move battery to enclosed battery box 
-  * move battery(ies) to engine area? maybe build a shelf just below the storage area? 
-  * add chain locker in the bow? very complicated modification 
-  * repair hatch  
-  * repair hatch seal & add pins to closing shackles 
-  * repair/​replace ventilators 
-  * get ventilator covers 
-  * add sea-cock to exhaust through-hull?​ 
-  * add sea-cock to bilge through-hull?​ 
-  * fix motor instrument panel warning lights, buzzer, and switches. 
- 
-done: 
-  * replace water tank (maybe a smaller tank would have been better) 
-  * mount water pump 
-  * mount deck-block to better route main & spinnaker halyards back to cockpit 
-  * un-seize current backstay adjuster 
-  * remove old stereo 
-  * remove old cables from bilge 
-  * patch leaks in jib traveler bolts 
-  * patch leak in spinnaker boom deck support 
-  * replace caulk/​filler at shroud & stay chain plates 
- 
  
rini/iw31.1310162561.txt.gz · Last modified: 2011/07/08 18:02 by ben